Archive for the ‘Teaching in China’ Category

13. Teaching in China – Christmas

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007

Christmas was so hectic. It was one of my best ever despite being away from friends and family. In the days before Christmas I bought crepe paper, balloons, and sweets to make up 205 little parcels for my Grade Ones (11-12 year olds). On Christmas Day I arranged with the Chinese teachers to keep them all in at lunch time and I visited each class and handed out the presents, wearing a Santa hat to add to the effect. I already grew the beard. To my surprise I returned to my room with more than I gave – about 100 cards and a dozen presents. The cards varied enormously; cute little Chinese cartoon characters with big eyes and messages of love, traditional Chinese designs, pop-up cards, cards with batteries and playing Jingle Bells etc., and horror cartoon theme cards (from boys of course – but I guess you could say the Chinese are still a little confused about exactly what Western culture is). The presents were little ornaments, a candle lamp, two Santas, a Santa hat with pigtails (!), some Chinese good luck ornaments, and a metal stand like a traditional gate with a big bell and two small bells and a hammer to sound them. [Later I was given a set of three vases too.] 

I went to two Senior class parties, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. Students got up and performed. There were good singers in both classes, which is not surprising because singing is very popular and it is not uncommon to pass someone shopping and singing softly to themselves. The students sang pop and traditional songs. Two boys did a comic dialogue, a favourite art form. It was obvious they were really funny though I didn’t understand a word. 

After the second Senior party I went with Alice and the Vice-Principal, Aussie 2 and the girlfriend to the Lord Mayor’s Christmas dinner for foreign experts. This was a lavish affair with four or five hundred people in the hall. It was held in the best hotel in Xiangfan in a room which could be used for large conferences, balls and concerts. There were a lot of foreigners there and many Chinese, probably from Departments at all levels of Government which have dealings with foreigners. A number of French people were there from the Citroen/Peugot factory and the manager gave a long dry speech in French which was translated into Chinese. I caught just a few words of the French but I didn’t listen because he had the same effect on me as my High School Economics teacher. 

The Mayor gave a speech of course and the experience of Chinese political rhetorical style was remarkable. Some politicians in

Australia speak quite loudly and vigorously. This guy topped them all. He spoke so forcefully and loudly that I am surprised he hasn’t grown mega-nodules on his vocal chords. He was certainly in danger of having a stroke from the pressure he built up to spit his words out! 

One more speech was given by the head of the Foreign Affairs Bureau and the entertainment began. The main performers were a group of dancer/acrobat/singer/lip-synchers(?) who performed

Beijing opera. This is a very stylized but enjoyable art form which blends drama, comedy, dance, acrobatics and martial arts moves. It was hard for me to tell if they were singing or lip-synching perfectly. Very beautiful and good fun. The funniest and easiest for me to understand was an act in mime where a woman played a very fussy passenger in a palanquin or sedan chair while four men held the poles. The presence of the chair was conveyed by the actions of the performers and they all moved around the stage at a perfectly judged distance from each other. The bearers eventually tired of their passenger’s demands and left her stranded and offended.
A woman with a powerful trained voice sang a patriotic song; a rock star with his backing singers gave a number; the French kids sang Christmas songs; a French manager with a good voice sang in Chinese.I met a number of new people. The first was a Malaysian/Chinese doctor who works for Mèdecins Sans Frontières. Then there were three from

Xiangfan College, an American, and Australian and a black Londoner. I said hello to a French family I met at the shops once. Lastly I met a Chinese doctor who works as MO for the French car plant through an organization with the initials SOS. Flora speaks some English with a French accent and became an instant friend.
 

12. Teaching in China

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007

My journey to

Wuhan by train involved one of those coincidences which make me believe I am being looked after by a higher power.

Alice
was going to come with me but could not because her father had an accident. She saw me safely onto the train and left. A couple of about my age came and sat in the same group of seats. Eventually we talked a little. The man knew some English from thirty years ago at school and I had my phrasebook. By the end of the journey I knew that he had been one of

Alice
‘s teachers at school and his wife worked in the Primary School I can see from my window.
 

Using the instructions Bob gave me in Chinese I took a taxi to

Wuhan University, a large campus set amongst wooded hills wearing autumn colours. The driver stopped to ask students the way to the foreign students’ quarters where I was to stay and the third person he asked got into the cab and directed us. I showed my papers, paid the key deposit and room charge and was shown to a basic but warm room with a bathroom with a western style toilet and hot water. There was a little shop on the ground floor of a nearby building where I found some very palatable burgers for eighty cents each and bought toilet paper. (Next time I will heed all the advice on the Lonely Planet website.) At the shop I was helped by a Congolese student whose native language is French, but who is learning English and Chinese to study law in

Wuhan
. Later, still hungry, my helper was

Vladimir
from Vladivostock. I flicked the channels on the TV for a while, discovering there is a French one but no English, then went to sleep.
 

The next day I set out to find my way to a Foreign Language Bookshop Bob mentioned. The first task was to get out of the University grounds. It really is huge. I found one exit which was padlocked and retraced my steps a bit then started asking the way out. I approached a couple and the girl, Lily, a journalism student who spoke English, said they would walk with me. She then told me which bus went to the bookshop and even came onto the bus to instruct the driver where to put me off. Lily also gave me the number of a bus which goes from the University to the station I arrived at on the far side of the city. The bookshop was not easy to find even then, being a fair way from the bus stop, and my search was delayed by the irresistible pull of a place called “Coffee Language” where I had a Cappuccino which proved to be a Café au Crème, but who’s complaining? I managed to find an English/Pinyin Dictionary but none of the novels I hoped to buy and no learning tapes. 

In the evening I took a taxi to “The Blue Sky” which is one of the favourite hang-outs of expats in

Wuhan. I met Robyn there and met Curt Rafe for the first time. Curt recruited me and Bob’s business placed me. I met some other Australians there and an American engineer retired in China with a very beautiful Chinese wife came and said hello and invited me to visit them the next time I go to

Wuhan
. I also met Canti, a young Chinese artist who had the Sony camera I almost bought instead of the Nikon. Its low-light functionality is much better. One day we will have a show of one another’s photos. Curt lent me a Chinese language course.
The Blue Sky is managed with the same flexibility of mind as Coffee Language and the Borscht I ordered took on the guise of Minestrone. The patrons were diverse. There were black people, probably African rather than Afro-Americans. There were fresh faced young Caucasians and a few older ones. One woman in her late thirties to early forties had an air of decadence about her. A sort of Angelina Jolie in a few years look. At a table of four ‘professional ladies’ with emotionally closed faces there was one Caucasian woman who looked quite unpleasant. 

The next day I left the University in the morning to catch the train back to Xiangfan. All rail tickets in

China are one way. Returns are not available. After I accidentally approached the right stall outside the station building I was helped by an information officer to purchase a ticket. It was a bad time as I was not able to get a train until evening. I explored the small market area near the station and for about half of that exploration was followed by two giggling boys. When I got back to the Station complex I went into a restaurant and the boys stood outside the window watching me until one of the staff chased them away. My helper told me she had bought me a ticket for the four o’clock train but when I was about to enter the station building I took out the ticket and noticed it said ten past six. I showed it to the girl and she was taken aback as she also thought she had been given the four o’clock ticket I requested but there was nothing she could do.
 

I went back to the restaurant. After a while I began to feel bored and had just sent up a plea for company when I looked up to see a young man walking towards me. I actually thought this was a High School student. Zhang is a 28 year old PhD student in

Beijing and his thesis is in a useful area of knowledge. He comes from a poor family in a small town but his brothers have good jobs and provide the money for his education. He is married and his wife works. Our conversation kept us both happy until my train was due and his was only half an hour away.
 

11. Teaching in China

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007

It’s a beautiful sunny day and I’m on a train on the way to

Wuhan, a city of 9,000,000 people, to see my agent. It was cold enough last night to freeze the water in the pail which catches the drips from my air-conditioner. As usual, there were problems with my computer this week but the school responded by buying an English version of Windows 2000 and the computer teacher re-formatted the drive. I hope this will make the machine trouble-free but there is one little problem already, the internet doesn’t work (I later found this was only a matter of the plug not being seated properly in the power board! Embarrassing). 

The lack of internet access led to another nice experience. My agent, Bob, e-mailed me some directions in Chinese so I could present them to taxi drivers in

Wuhan. I went looking for an Internet café after morning classes and found one almost next door to one of the nice restaurants I go to. A young woman who is probably the assistant manager saw me walk past and came into the shop, filled with curiosity. Many Chinese have a child-like approach to foreigners and will even follow one in the street for a while, quite innocently.
 

The shop was actually a computer sales shop, I discovered later, but when I said “Internet?” one of the staff got up from the computer he was using and I was ushered into his place. I accessed the mail I needed to copy and asked if it could be printed. My friend the manageress understood and told the staff of the shop what I wanted. One of them appeared with a miniature USB memory device, copied the two documents, and went off to print them. The lady, whose name I don’t know, sat with me and began trying to decipher the letter I was reading! Privacy is not strictly observed in

China. There was nothing private in it so I went through it word for word with her with the help of my phrasebook. After a short time I was given the printed letters and I excused myself and left to catch this train. When I attempted to pay for the Internet use and printing I was told there was no charge.
 

I have not commented before on how beautifully some Chinese women dress. There are many gorgeous clothes for sale and women with the means to do so take full advantage of this. The prices may seem cheap to us by currency conversion arithmetic but I think some women save hard to buy what they want. If some of these clothes were sold on the Australian market they would fetch a small fortune. My ‘friend’ from the restaurant was wearing a wonderful deep purple jacket in a velvet-like finish with subtly imprinted roses around its skirt. Her trousers were a tone different and probably not made to go with the jacket but matched perfectly. I would guess that she saved hard to buy such beautiful clothes. (Later I was to find out exactly what that jacket cost. There was no way she could ever have afforded it but the person who gave it to her was wealthy.) 

It is very hard for me to tell the age of a Chinese woman. If they are under thirty they often look to me as if they are in their late teens. 

10. Teaching in China

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007

The school was trying very hard to please me and keep me here. (Not that I want to leave!) They bought me a DVD player and the TV it connects to was a really large digital thing with good speakers. The next week they reimbursed my fare in advance. Their usual practice is to give half after six months and half after twelve. I had to ask for the money to pay my bills in Australia or return to

Australia to find a job and pay them. Perhaps I was just bargaining, but I wanted to make sure I never got in that position. 

I went to another restaurant. When I walked in everyone became really excited. The supervisor and another woman sent out an urgent calls on the mobile phone. A woman came rushing in first and joined in everybody’s attempts to find out what I wanted to eat. Then the first woman’s son came rushing in to help. He was in High School, sort of, and his English wasn’t bad at all. He wanted to keep up the acquaintance and is another person who has offered to help me any time. He was aiming to go to

Canada and was somehow studying outside of the school system. A clever fellow, he was lucky to have parents with the means to let him follow his own learning path. In the end he did get to Canada where he did a bridging course and gained entry to the

University of

British Columbia
.
 

I played with ideas about making some extra money but never got them off the ground. One idea was to buy Chinese artworks and sell them through E-bay. Wycliffe, another Aussie, just had some luck in that area because the parents of one of his students own an art shop and gave him a painting by a recognized artist. 

After my classes one day I went out shopping with a first-year teacher, Ruth. We first bought the simcard I have mentioned then went to the old city where I wanted to go back to the shop with the stone carvings to find out more about them. The shopkeeper, who is also the craftsman who made many of the goods in his shop, and Rose, were surprised at my ability to recognize Bhuddha and Kuan Yin figures (KY the goddess who hears people’s cries, or goddess of mercy) and that I knew at least a little about Zhuge Liang, an intellectual who was recruited by a ruler to be a General during the Three Kingdoms Period. There is a vast historical novel about this period in

China‘s history. In English it is called “The Romance of the Three Kingdoms”. I would like to read it one day.
 

We looked at other art and craft shops and returned to a market near the school where I bought a string of Christmas flags and two “Chinese Knot” good luck decorations which I will hang outside my room a day or two before Christmas. I’ll wear a Santa hat to class on Christmas Day for fun. 

 

9. Teaching in China

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007

Here is another example of Chinese hospitality.

Alice arranged a birthday party for Lennie and I (his birthday is the day after mine). She invited some of her good friends and we went to a classy hotel/restaurant managed by another of her friends. The manager is a young woman who joined us for a time and proved a real livewire. Alice and her friends, who had never met us before, gave us birthday gifts. I received a wallet, a CD of Christmas music and a beautiful long scroll painting of a Han Dynasty river and market scene. It was a print of a very famous original. I was warmed by the generosity of these people to someone they had never met. Alan and his beautiful girlfriend also gave me a gift, a small vacuum flask. There are shops selling these everywhere. Alan is a very nice young man who was raised on a farm in

New South Wales
. His girlfriend seems to have a lovely nature too.
 

The others went bowling and I walked back to the school. I wanted to rest for my Sunday excursion and have tired of the heavy drinking of some of my companions. They are happy in their cups but it is not my scene. I am determined to widen my circle of friends and acquaintances. 

I am experimenting with listening to Chinese music. There are a lot of bad Western crossovers around but there are plenty of CDs of traditional instruments in traditional arrangements. I think I am not too far off the mark in calling this Chinese classical music. It is not homespun folk. This is very beautiful music and we ought to hear more of it in the Anglo world.…….Today I went to a large arcade of shops selling electrical and electronic goods. Two shops have a large selection of DVDs. I went into one of the smaller shops that sell DVD players and the person who came over to help me was the wife of the shop’s owner, and an English teacher. She wants to keep in touch and ask my advice on problems which arise in her understanding of English. 

I tried to get a cab to the old city but they must have very defined territories as he looked bewildered by my request and eventually pulled over and ushered me to a bus stop where he pointed at a sign. I didn’t understand his gestures so gave up and just walked around the inner city area. This time I ventured into People’s Park, the central park and square of the city. Many people were strolling around, including a lot of parents and their brightly clad toddlers. There are three or four different children’s play attractions on the park, a thing like a “bouncy castle”, dodgems where they probably train for driving in Chinese traffic, and other things. A number of parents and children were using cloth whips to spin tops, something I haven’t seen in the Western world since my childhood.As I often do, I am writing this in an eating place. It has the surprising name of “The NIEC Joss Stick Becomes the Steak House”. It is next to the park and advertises a variety of cuisines including Western, and the magic word ‘coffee’ enticed me in. I am seated overlooking the park. I expected the prices to be high but they are good. I had a ‘steak’ (tenderised till it resembles a rissole) and egg, two rolls, soup, coffee, a thimble of something like Port, and a glass of sweet flavoured tea for under $6.00AU.